Satisfying Shore

The Enchanting and Contradictory ​South of France

A Hidden Beauty

The South‌ of France⁢ is a mesmerizing ⁤destination, but only if you know where to‍ look. Turn your back on the coast, ‌and you’ll discover​ a landscape that has remained virtually⁢ untouched since ancient⁣ times. The Mediterranean sea and sky, just as breathtaking as they were to the Greeks who settled here centuries ago,​ reveal themselves in⁣ all their glory.

A ‌Boschian Holiday Resort

Imagine if Hieronymus ⁣Bosch designed a vacation spot – that’s what St. Tropez feels⁢ like ​in ‌the summer.‍ And it’s not just St. Tropez; the entire coastline,⁣ from Marseilles to Menton, is‌ a chaotic mix of concrete-covered hillsides,⁤ flashy sports cars, and bustling camper vans.⁢ The harbors reek of oil and other unpleasant odors, ⁤while the harborside restaurants are both overpriced and foul-smelling. Yet, despite all this, I visited last summer and had an absolute blast.

A Dreamlike Escape

The locals joke that Nice⁤ gets its name from “Ni ici, ni là“: “Neither here nor there.” It’s a city that exists⁢ between worlds, neither ⁤fully French nor Italian. Nice is a living, ‍breathing city that also serves as a stage set ‍for ‌a fantastical dream. ​Visitors flock here to escape reality,‍ just as tuberculosis patients once‌ sought solace in ‌the open-air hospitals that dotted the Riviera. ​The English invented ‌the French Riviera as a‍ home away from home in the ⁣19th century,‍ while the Americans ​reinvented it in ​the 20th century as a sophisticated alternative to their own country. ⁣The Germans, well, they⁢ left their mark too. And the ⁢French? They’ve⁣ catered to the world’s desires and turned ‌the Riviera into a playground for⁤ the wealthy.

A Never-Ending Story

The Once Upon a Time ⁣World by ‌Jonathan Miles tells ⁣the ‌captivating tale of the Riviera’s creation ⁢and transformation. While some may argue that the ⁢Riviera is being “unmade,” the truth is that it will continue ​to exist in all its glory. From⁤ its humble⁤ beginnings as ⁣a coast⁢ dotted with fishing villages and ⁤bustling ⁢ports, it evolved ‌into an exclusive‌ resort for the rich, a haven for artists, and ‍eventually ​a playground for the world’s elite. The view remains unchanged,‌ and so‍ the Riviera will endure, much like a ‌Disney ‌cruise that has mysteriously ‍slipped into ​the‍ Bermuda Triangle.

A Playground for the⁣ Rich ‍and Famous

The Riviera’s allure was discovered by English travelers ‌in‍ the 18th century ‌as they made their‍ way⁣ to ​Italy. They⁣ marveled at the novel pleasures ⁤of ⁣swimming and indulged in refreshing sorbets, all‌ while battling the relentless onslaught of flies, ‍fleas, and⁣ gnats. The Riviera became⁢ a playground for European aristocracy,​ with the English and Russian elites flocking to its ⁣shores. Artists such as Van ⁤Gogh,⁤ Monet, and Cézanne found inspiration ⁢in its breathtaking landscapes. The Riviera⁤ became ⁢a blank canvas for artists with‌ a fresh‍ vision, resulting ‌in⁢ a rich​ artistic legacy that can still be admired today.

A Playground for ‍Everyone

After World War I, the Riviera experienced a surge in popularity, attracting American tourists who ⁢added a touch of glitz ⁢and ⁢glamour to the already vibrant scene. The ​eccentric millionaire Frank‍ Jay Gould built luxurious hotels, and the Fitzgeralds reveled on the beaches. The Riviera​ became synonymous with indulgence ​and excess, a place where pleasure and⁢ danger intertwined. However,⁣ as mass tourism took hold, the coast transformed into‍ a ribbon of concrete and glass, losing ⁣some of its‍ charm ​along the way. Yet, the Riviera remains a paradoxical place, both crass and sophisticated, attracting dreamers⁤ from ⁣all walks of life.

A Timeless Destination

Despite its ups and ⁤downs, the⁣ Riviera ⁣has managed to retain its ⁢allure. The view remains as ⁤captivating⁢ as ever, and the phrases⁢ in John Murray’s old guidebook still ring true. The Riviera ‌is a place where reality and fiction intertwine, where the invented part of life holds a ⁢certain beauty. So, ⁢why not embark on a journey to the ⁣South of France? Jonathan Miles’s book is the⁤ perfect companion,​ guiding you ‌through‌ the footsteps of those who have left their mark ⁣on this enchanting ⁤coastline. From Oscar Wilde ⁤to ⁣Jacques Cousteau, their ⁣stories come alive as you explore the‌ Riviera’s past ⁢and present.

The Once‌ Upon a Time World: The Dark and Sparkling Story⁢ of ​the French Riviera by Jonathan Miles​ is a must-read for anyone captivated by the allure of ⁣this⁣ extraordinary ⁢destination.

Dominic Green is a Wall Street ⁢Journal contributor and a fellow ‍of the Royal Historical Society.

⁤What ​makes the South of France a gastronomic paradise⁤ and what culinary delights can be found⁤ there?

And writers, such as Picasso, Matisse, and‍ F. Scott Fitzgerald, were also ‌drawn to the ⁢region, captivated ⁣by its charm ​and beauty. The South of France soon became ⁤synonymous with luxury, elegance, and style.

An Artistic Haven

The South ⁤of France ‍has always been a haven⁣ for artists, providing inspiration with its stunning landscapes and vibrant colors. ‍The town of‍ Arles, famously captured in many of ‍Van Gogh’s paintings, still retains⁣ its artistic ⁢spirit. ‍The ⁣small fishing village of Collioure,​ with its picturesque ‍harbor and vibrant colors, attracted artists such as ‌Henri Matisse and⁢ André Derain, who were inspired by ‍its beauty. ⁢The⁤ region continues to inspire and nurture artistic talent, with ​numerous⁤ galleries, museums, and festivals dedicated to the arts.

A‍ Gastronomic Paradise

The South of France is renowned for its culinary⁢ delights.⁤ From the fresh seafood of Marseille to​ the truffles of ‌Provence, the region offers ‌a tantalizing array of flavors. The Mediterranean diet, with‌ its⁣ emphasis on fresh produce, olive oil, and⁤ herbs,⁣ is celebrated here. The local markets⁣ are⁤ a feast‌ for the senses, with an abundance of colorful ⁢fruits, vegetables, and aromatic spices. And of course, no visit to the South of France is‌ complete without⁤ sampling ⁣the world-famous wines of Bordeaux, Provence, and the Côtes‌ du Rhône.

A Cultural Melting Pot

The South⁤ of France ‍has a rich and diverse cultural heritage. Influences from‌ Italy,‍ Spain, and North Africa can be seen⁣ in the ‍architecture, cuisine, and language of the region.⁣ From the⁣ Roman ruins in Nîmes and the medieval streets of Carcassonne to the vibrant markets of Nice and the⁣ bustling‍ port of Marseille, the South of France offers a fascinating blend ⁣of history, culture, and tradition.

An Endless⁢ Summer

One ‌of the greatest attractions of the South of France is its climate. ‍With over 300 days of sunshine a year, the region enjoys a mild Mediterranean climate that‌ makes​ it ⁤a year-round destination.⁤ The long, warm summers are​ perfect for‌ lazy⁣ days on the beach, ​while⁤ the mild winters ​are ideal‍ for ‍exploring the charming villages and⁢ towns ⁣that dot the ‍countryside. ⁣Whether you’re basking in the sun or strolling through⁣ lavender fields, the ⁤South of France promises an endless summer.

Conclusion

The South⁢ of France is​ a paradoxical destination that ⁤enchants and surprises. From the glamour ⁣of St.‌ Tropez to ⁢the quiet beauty of the countryside, the region offers something for everyone. Whether you’re a history buff, an art lover, a foodie, or simply looking for a place to ⁤relax and‍ unwind, the South ⁤of France has it ⁤all.⁣ It’s a place where​ contradictions ‌blend seamlessly, creating a unique and unforgettable experience.⁤ So, pack‍ your ⁢bags and ⁤prepare to be enchanted by the magic of ⁢the South of France.